Tips & Tricks

My pool is losing water

There are two ways in which a pool can lose water. The first is through normal operation, evaporation and bather use.  The second is due to a leak.

Water loss by normal use can be reduced.  Normal operation would be expected to lose upwards of an inch of water a week (expect greater evaporation rates with high water temperature, or devices like fountains or waterfalls).  Covering a pool during the evening and at night (when the difference between the water temperature and the air temperature is the greatest) will slow evaporation significantly.  (Note: it is not advisable to cover a pool during the day as it increases the risk of algae growth.)  Daytime evaporation can be prevented with a liquid solar blanket.  It forms a one molecule thick invisible layer that prevents evaporation.  Aside from water loss, evaporation is also the largest cause of heat loss.  Using a liquid solar blanket and pool cover will help to maintain a comfortable bathing temperature and reduce the cost of running a gas or electric heater or a heat pump.

Significant water loss (an inch or more a day) can likely be attributed to a leak.  There are two possible sources: a leak in the pressure side of the circulation system (a leak in the suction side allows air to enter the system, not water loss), or a leak in the structure of the pool (vinyl liner, main drain, walk-in steps, skimmer and return faceplates).  To determine the cause of a leak you should use the on/off test before making arrangements for a repair or attempting a repair:

1.  Top water up to its regular level and mark the top of the water level on your skimmer faceplate with a pencil.

2.  Run the system for 24 hours.  Measure the amount of water lost, and top the pool back up to your pencil mark.

3.  Shut the system off for 24 hours and measure the amount of water lost.

If the pool loses water in both cases then there is most likely a leak in the structure of the pool.  Beechmount Pools provides under water leak detection and repair services.  If you can easily identify the location of the leak, we also sell patch kits for underwater repairs.

If the pool loses water only while running then there is likely a leak in the circulation system.  Beechmount Pools provides pressure testing services for underground lines, and replumbing services.

Identifying the source of a leak will reduce the time needed to locate and repair a leak and ultimately save you money.

Open your own pool

1.

The first step you take in opening your pool depends on what kind of winter cover your pool has. For those with a "safety cover" style winter cover, please proceed to step 1B. For those with a winter cover that collects water through the winter season (these may include a tarp & waterbags, or a lock-in cover made of vinyl or tarp material), you must pump the water from on top of the cover. The pumping of the cover surface water can be done with a submersible style pump, or with a gas powered "trash pump". As the water is pumping off from on top of the cover, use this time to clean off the winter cover by scrubbing it, using a standard pool pole with a brush-head attachment. For those with waterbags, drain and clean the waterbags when the pool cover has been pumped off. For those with a lock-in style cover, unclip the cover from the track it is locked-in to, the entire perimeter of the pool. You can now fold up and remove the winter cover (this is a task more easily accomplished with 2 people). For those with a cover made of vinyl, it is reccomended that you submerge the folded-up cover in water for the summer so as to help avoid the cover shrinking when it dries out. Proceed to step 2.

1B.

Before removing your safety cover, brush and scrub any debris off of it with a pool pole and brush head first. In order to remove the safety cover, you will require a safety cover tool, which is a metal bar with a notched-end. Use this tool to "un-clip" the metal springs from each of the lag bolts around the perimeter of the pool. You can now fold up and remove the safety cover from the pool. Now lower the safety cover lag bolts into the pool deck with the provided allen-key tool. It is reccomended that these bolts have grease applied to their threads at this time, to help avoid seizing.

2.

With the winter cover now removed, you can begin re-assembling various pieces of pool equipment:

a- remove any plugs in return lines (jets), vacuum lines, and inside the skimmer.

b- re-install jet fittings in appropriate locations, place skimmer basket back in skimmer.

c- re-fasten any lights in the pool, place and tighten any ladders, handrails or diving boards.

d- replace any missing plugs into the pool pump and place pump basket back inside.

e- replace the drain cap on the filter, make sure any pressure gauges or sightglasses are threaded back in as well.

f- replace drain plugs or close drain cocks in heater and reconnect the pressure switch.

g- reconnect any other piece of equipment attached the pool plumbing.

3.

If the pool's water level is not at least halfway up the skimmer mouth, add water to the pool until it reaches this level.

4.

With the pool water level now up, fill a bucket with water and pour it into the pump where the basket sits. You may want to repeat this step once or twice. Close the pump lid and turn on the pool pump. For those with a sand filter make sure the filter is on the "FILTER" setting at this point. For those with a cartridge filter, opening the air relief valve on top of the filter will help prime the system faster.

5.

When the pump comes to full prime (no air is visible inside), check for any leaks from pool equipment. You should now add opening chemicals to the water and allow them to circulate for a day or two before bringing in a water sample for analyzing.

Close your own pool

Water Chemistry:  Take a sample of pool water one week before you close the pool to Beechmount Pool Services for testing.  The pH and alkalinity should be adjusted to slightly higher than normal at that time.

Solar Blanket:  Clean and remove the solar blanket.  If it is on a solar roller, leave it on the roller and wrap it tightly with a plastic sheet to prevent mice from nesting over the winter.

Shocking:  Shock the pool 24 hours prior to closing.

Lowering the Water Level:  Lower the water using your vacuum hose (set the filter on waste).  Keep the skimmer full of water to hold the prime while you lower the water below the skimmer.  If you use your vacuum hose to lower the water, give the pool one final vacuum, then backwash.  Using a submersible pump to lower the water is faster and easier.  In a concrete pool, the water should go down below the jets.  In a vinyl-lined pool, the water should be just below the skimmer. 

Misc. Equipment:  Remove ladders, railings and diving boards.  Disconnect pool lights and allow them to sink below winter ice level or bring them up onto the deck and wrap them up.  Remove skimmer baskets, weir doors, and outlet eyeballs.

Winterize Your Equipment:
Pump – Remove 2 plugs.
Filter – Remove pressure guage(s), take them inside for the winter.  Place the dial valve handle in between any two positions.  Remove bottom plug or cap and make sure that all the water drains out of the filter.
Heater – Turn off gas.  Remove plugs found on either side.  Disconnect pressure switch inside door.  Open any taps if present.
Heat Pump – Disconnect both hoses and tilt 15 degrees to ensure draining.
Chlorinator/Brominator – Remove any remaining chemicals and place in a sealed bag.  Remove any plugs.  Disconnect any supply lines (if feeder is an online feeder).
Valves – Open any valves.
Piping – Disconnect any piping that appears to collect water.

Add Winterizing Chemicals – Add 1 L of Hibernate Algaecide, 1 L of Hibernate Stain and Scale Control, and two bags of Hiber Shock.

Drain and Seal Pool Lines – Use plastic plugs in the returns with Teflon tape to seal.  Use rubber expandable plugs in skimmer for easy removal in the spring.  Use a Gizzmo or similar device to absorb the pressure of the ice in the skimmer. 

Blowing Lines with a Shop Vac (Blowing Style)

1. Lower water just below skimmer (vinyl pool) or 18” below coping (concrete pool).

2. Disconnect backwash hose.

3. Attach blower hose to same fitting.

4. Put dial valve handle between any 2 positions.

5. Turn on blower.

6. As air rushes out return jets, cap with a threaded plug.

7. If air comes out 1 jet, cap it and the will water will come out the other.  If air only comes out skimmer, plug it to force air out jets.

8. After jets are sealed, suck out water from skimmer (if any water is left) using the vacuum hose of the shop vac.
   

Install the Winter Cover – Allow the cover to ‘float’ on the water and come straight up the pool wall and up on the deck.  The cover acts as a separator and cannot hold the weight of the snow and ice.  If the cover is stretched until taught across the pool, the snow and ice will pull the cover in.

Water Bags:  Lay the waterbags end to end around the perimeter of the pool to properly seal the pool from the wind.  Only fill the waterbags half full or approximately 2” thick.  This will help prevent damage to the bags from the expansion of the ice.  If the pool is in a windy area, lay bags across the corners of the cover.  This will keep the cover from billowing up.

My pool has low water flow

Low flow is an issue with the circulation system that requires attention.  Circulation and filtration are the most essential parts of maintaining clear and safe water.  There are many possible causes of low flow.

Let's first consider possible problems with the pump.  A pump will not function properly if it is not fully primed.  This means that the strainer area should be completely filled with water.  The other possibility is a clogged impeller.  The impeller is attached to the shaft of the motor and forces water to flow.  If any debris passes by the strainer basket, it can clog the impeller and prevent it from pumping water properly.  This is a common problem in areas where pebbles, grass, twigs, pine needles etc. are introduced to the pool.  Depending on the make and model of pump, it may need to be disassembled to access the impeller.  The final possibly in an issue with the electric motor portion of the pump.  Beechmount Pools services all makes and models of electric pool and spa pumps.  We have facilities to test and repair pool and spa motors at the store.

Now consider the possibility of an obstruction elsewhere in the circulation system.  This could be as simple as debris in the skimmer basket, the pump strainer basket of the filter.  All baskets should be checked and emptied on a regular basis.  Sand filters should be backwashed regularly.  The filter will have a resting pressure (the reading on the pressure gauge immediately after backwashing).  When the pressure rises by 5-10 psi from the resting pressure, the filter is full and needs to be backwashed for 3-5 minutes and rinsed for 30-45 seconds.  Cartridge filters need to be rinsed with a hose on a regular basis.  Sand filters should be chemically cleaned once a season, cartridge filters at least twice.  Another possibility is an unexpected obstruction in pipes, most likely in the suction side of the system.  This sort of debris is often introduced while vacuuming or through an automatic cleaner.  A hand vacuum or suction side automatic cleaner should be used with an inline leaf trap to prevent this from happening.  Beechmount Pools uses high-pressure air to force obstructions out of underground lines.

If these two problems have been eliminated and flow is still not sufficient, it can be increased by operating the pool with all suction and return lines open, changing return fittings, or in extreme cases replumbing or replacing equipment.

My pump isn't working properly

When a pump is running normally (primed) the strainer basket is completely filled with water.  It will make a quiet, consistent noise from water flowing.  The motor will likely be quite hot while running.  Modern electric motors will shut off before causing any damage to the pump.  You should turn off your pump and allow it to cool before attempting any service.

If a pump is primed and moving water, but making unusual noise it could be an issue with the motor, or the bearings in the motor.  A leak in the pump's shaft seal will allow water to enter the motor causing damage.  This type of problem should be diagnosed and repaired by a professional service technician.  Beechmount Pools repairs all makes and models of pool and spa pumps.

A pump that is not priming could be related to several issues.  If the pipe leading from the skimmer to the pump is filled with air, a pump will not start properly.  As a temporary solution you can add water the pump strainer with a garden hose.  Once the strainer area is filled with water the pump should start.  If the lid on the strainer isn't sealed properly, water will continue to drain back into the pool. Ensure the lid is intact and the gasket or o-ring is intact and seating well. 

As a permanent solution, a valve can be installed before the pump to prevent water from draining.  If the strainer fills and holds water, but does not pump water, it is likely a clogged or damaged impeller.  The impeller is attached directly the shaft of the motor.  Any obstruction or damage will prevent the pump from moving water.  Depending on the make and model of pump you may need to disassemble the wet end of the pump to check and clean this area.  You should be able to spin the shaft by hand by turning the impeller.  If the shaft will not turn, the pump needs to be serviced.

My gas heater will not fire

Gas powered (and electric heaters for that matter) heaters operate on a pressure switch and will not fire unless there is sufficient water flow.  This it to prevent damage to the heater and surrounding plumbing, and to prevent fire.  If your heater is not firing, consult the "Low Flow" tips section before considering any service.

Gas heaters must be serviced by a licensed gas fitter.  Beechmount Pools works with several gas fitters regularly and can recommend experienced pool heater service technicians.

There is water behind my liner

There are two possible sources of water behind a liner: ground water, or a leak.  Ground water is a common occurrence in the spring, and in certain areas of town.  If you have opened your pool and haven't topped up the water, do so.  Often the added weight will force the ground water back into the ground, and the liner will return to its normal position. If the water does not return to the ground, Beechmount Pools uses special pumps to remove water from behind the liner  (this can also be accomplished using your pool pump and a flexible hose).  Aside from the spring ground water, water behind liners can also be caused by a leak.  The leak must be patched before the water can be pumped effectively.  Beechmount Pools offers underwater leak detection and repair services.

Pucks are not breaking down in my chemical feeder

If pucks are not breaking down in your feeder, you should verify that there isn't an air lock.  If the pucks are dry when you open your chemical feeder, you should consult Beechmount Pools on how to resolve an air lock.  The other possibility is that water is unable to flow through the feeder for one of several reasons.  Residue from chemicals can build up and need to be removed.  DO NOT USE ANY CHEMICALS TO CLEAN THE INSIDE OF A CHEMICAL FEEDER.  Offline feeders have a check valve on the outlet fitting.  If the check valve is installed on the inlet, no water will pass through the feeder.  Verify that is it installed correctly.  If these problems have been resolved and pucks are still not dissolving, there may be an issue with the overall rate of water flow in the circulation system.  Consult the "Low Flow" tips section.